FAQs

Q. What is a rabbit really like?

A. Domestic rabbits have unique personalities that make them wonderful indoor companions. In addition, rabbits are social animals, meaning they need the companionship of humans or other animals, although the need may vary among individual rabbits. Rabbits do play, some more than others. Many can get along with most cats and some dogs when properly introduced. Rabbits can also be trained to voice commands. They are generally not well suited for living outdoors. Rabbits require as much care as any other pet, including medical treatment. With proper care and diet, a typical house rabbit's life span is 8 - 15 years.

Q. Do rabbits talk?

A. Rabbit do not talk. However, they click, scream, grunt and growl to express, content, fright, and dissatisfaction

Q. Do rabbits bite?

A. Rabbits chew a lot but DO NOT bite their owners or keepers. They may occasionally lick and nip your hand if it smells of their favorite treats, food or fruits, or when you try to stop them from reaching their favorite food.

Q. Are rabbits rodents?

A. No. Although once included in the mammalian order Rodentia, rabbits were reclassified in the mid-1900 and put into the order Lagomorpha. Some researchers, using sophisticated protein sequence analyses, have even suggested that rabbits are actually much more closely related to primates than rodents.

Q. What do rabbits in Nigeria eat?

A. Rabbits love fruits as treats, fruits like apples (without poisonous seeds), watermelon, mango, pineapple, pawpaw, pear, avocado, banana, grapes, strawberry, and blackberry. Other vegetables they eat include eggplant, sweet potato, fresh corn, green beans, carrots and cucumber.

However, the rabbit’s gut is designed to thrive on fiber. Provide the rabbit with plenty grass hay or fresh grass, or leafy vegetables regularly. These are readily available in our localities here in Nigeria at no cost.

In addition, pellets remain the ultimate rabbit feed as most rabbit breeders will say, even though a rabbit can live its entire life happily without sniffing any pellet. I will however advice that you add pellets to what you feed your rabbits, especially when they are producing kits for you. 

Q. Where can I get pellets?

A. You can go to the nearest vet store or pet food store and make enquiries or call: +234-8179914164 to get supply.

Q. Can I let my rabbits roam the house?

A. Yes, if it is just a rabbit but No if they are two or more rabbits (especially if not spayed/neutered). A single rabbit roaming the house will be less of a problem and any undesired behavior can easily be traced to that rabbit. However, if two or more are let to roam the house and one goes on a chewing extravaganza. Which will you say did it so that the behavior is corrected, they all look innocent. 

Q.  How long do rabbits live?

A. Rabbits live an average of 8 to 15 years. However, this depends on the breed, nutrition, the environment they are kept. Rabbits kept inside live longer than rabbits kept outside.

Q. Can I dye my rabbit’s hair?

A. Yes. Although this may sound absurd to the vast majority of rabbit owners, there are always some people who feel the need to make themselves known and stand out from the crowd.

It has been known for people to dye rabbit fur much like some breeds of dog (notably poodles) are.

However, rabbits have delicate skin and digestive systems and therefore absorption of any dye either through ingestion through grooming or via the skin may cause serious health issues for the rabbit and is therefore very strongly discouraged and should never be recommended under any circumstances, since there is no benefit to the rabbit what so ever.

Q. Do rabbits really bully?

A. Yes, rabbits bully other rabbits or smaller pets by nipping, biting or clawing them. Intact mature males are known to bully younger males in a herd. This is a territorial behavior where a male rabbit will want to claim supremacy over an area of space or all the space available for the rabbits, and will not tolerate the presence of any other male. Females do exhibit this behavior too but if bonded (introducing two female rabbits) can stay together without bullying each other. In addition, rabbits nip and bully smaller pets like guinea pigs - sometimes it is funny and sometimes it is not. This behavior can be stopped if not desired by spaying/neutering your rabbits. Before then, always watch for bullying that can be live threatening and defuse it.

Q. How do I purchase a rabbit from JF Rabbits?

A. To purchase a rabbit from us, visit our rabbits page to check on the rabbits we have available. Give us a call with your order.

Q. How do I get rabbits delivered to me?

A. Once you indicate interest in any of our rabbits, we get your address and other information to make sure we deliver the right rabbit (s) to you, and it is done – you get the rabbit (s) without stress.

Q. Do rabbits play?

A. Rabbits play with toys or household items that they adopt as toys. They push toys around with their noses, bat them with their fore paws, pick them up in their mouths and carry them around, and toss them.  A rabbit that is well socialized to people will seek them out to play with.

Q. Do rabbits chew?

A. Rabbits naturally chew a lot. Since pet rabbits may chew on harmful items, it is important to provide the rabbit with numerous toys that it is allowed to play with. Untreated wood and cardboard boxes are good rabbit chew toys.

Q. Do rabbits sleep?

A. It is a fact that Rabbits are crepuscular animals. They are active at night and SLEEP most of the day. My rabbits are hardly ever seen lying down with eyes closed while sleeping. They may tuck their feet in and lie down quite, but their eyes are wide open. I hardly ever catch them sleeping with their eyes closed.

 

Q. When will a rabbit be ready to give birth?

A. At 5 months of age, most female rabbits are able to conceive. However, this maturity age depends on the breed of the rabbit in question. Small and medium breeds mature faster than giant breeds. The rabbit undergo a 30 days circle from conception to delivery.

Q. What fun things can I do with my bunny?

A. Here are some fun things you can try with your bun:

Game of Tag: One of us humans will grab a bunch of food, such as parsley, and take it to one end of the house. Bunny automatically comes after us, because he heard the fridge door opening and closing and expects his obligatory treat. We make him stand on his hind legs and give him a tiny piece of the parsley before racing to the other side of the house and calling his name. Bunny hops after us and receives another tiny bite of parsley before we sprint to the next spot in the house and call his name. This goes on until Bunny decides that he had enough. Usually after 5-10 rounds. This is a great game, because it makes him and us run and spend time together interacting. See more - The Shell Game, Hop, Roly-Poly, Teach and Play.

You can also play Find the food game. Hide some of your rabbits favorite treats about your person. Let the bunny have some idea that there is food to be had, and let bunny find it. This can be a good way to build trust between you and your rabbit, and is a great way to start with timid or handling shy rabbits. Try also Obstacle/Jump Game and Teaching tricks. If you bun does not amuse you during each of these games, then I will advise you try the bribe game.

Q. Can my rabbit be litter trained?

A. Yes. A rabbit trained to use the litter box will leave most or all of its fecal pellets in the litter box. You can litter train rabbits by taking advantage of their tendency to return to the same place to eliminate. Observe where the rabbit is eliminating and place a litter box there.

Q. Do rabbits dig?

A. Because digging is a natural behavior for wild rabbits, it is often exhibited by pet rabbits who may choose to dig into seat cushions or carpets. This behavior is best managed by providing the rabbit with acceptable means of digging. If allowed outside the rabbit can dig in the dirt. Within the household, specific mats or pillows can be assigned to the rabbit. It works this way – if the rabbit is allowed to dig without interruption into a certain object or in a certain area but is interrupted every time it tries to dig elsewhere, it will likely engage in this natural behavior where it is not interrupted.

Q. Do mature rabbits injure young ones? 

A. Not at all. Mature male rabbits usually tolerate younger rabbits less than 3 months old. However, as these rabbits begin to mature at 4 months old, the mature male is able to fish out the younger males in the herd and trouble them. It is advised that you separate the rabbits at this age according to their gender.

Q. Do my new rabbits need drinking water?

A. Yes. Always make sure your rabbit (s) has access to clean water.

Q. Can my rabbits cohabit with other pets?

A. Yes, Rabbits especially young ones find it easy to coexist in the same environment with other pets like guinea pigs and tamed dogs.

Q. How do I care for my bun?

A. Provide your bun with a good housing, and feed. (Pellet/hay grass)

Do not let your bun roam beyond your supervision. It could do something mischievous.

Protect your bun from cat and dog predators – Do not leave the bun alone outside.

Always keep the bun’s housing and feeding troughs clean.

If you let the bun out on the floor, let the floor be a dry floor. Wet floors can easily cause the bun to develop sore hocks: you might want to read taking care of a cute creature to find more information on how to take care of your bunny.

Q. How do I introduce my new rabbit (s) to the other resident pets?

A. Rabbits usually get along with cats, guinea pigs and well-behaved dogs. In fact, many times the rabbits will end up bossing the resident animals around. The ideal way to introduce the rabbit would be to confine or leash the dog/cat and let the rabbit investigate at its own pace. Interactions between rabbits and other pets should always be supervised.

Q. How should I handle my rabbit?

A. While rabbits need to learn to be picked up and handled for necessary examinations and grooming, in general they will be happier left to hop about on their own. However, it is still important that you are able to and feel comfortable handling your rabbit. Begin by approaching him slowly and calmly. Grab him firmly on his shoulders (no ears!) and lift. As soon as possible, place a supporting hand under his buttocks. Some people simply put one hand under the rabbit's tummy while using the other hand to support its buttocks. Bring the rabbit in close to your body and retain a firm grip. Rabbits will kick and struggle if they are not held securely. They also tend to kick more when they are nearing the ground or about to be put into their cage. If you start to lose your hold on the rabbit, drop, as close to the ground as possible, so the rabbit does not fall far. To help calm a struggling rabbit, cover his eyes. It is easier to teach a kit rabbit to get used to being picked up than it is for an adult rabbit.

Q. What other health issues should I be concerned about?

A. No vaccinations are required. However, rabbits' teeth grow continuously and need to be checked at least annually by a vet.

Rabbits have sensitive digestive systems. They best way to maintain it is through a proper diet. As grazing animals, rabbits need to have hay/grass constantly to keep their system moving.

Finally, if you notice any marked change in his behavior, including lethargy, lack of appetite, severe diarrhea, sneezing, or nasal discharge, take your rabbit to a veterinarian.

Q. At what age should rabbits be spayed or neutered?

A. Females can be spayed as soon as they sexually mature, usually around 4 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are at least 6 months old, as surgery is riskier on a younger female rabbit. Males can be neutered as soon as the testicles descend, usually around 3 1/2 months, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 5 months old.

Q. Where can I spay/neuter my rabbits?

A. Check with your vet or call: +234-8142438093

Q. How can I find a veterinarian experienced with rabbits?

Ask for referrals from friends. To evaluate a veterinarian, ask the following questions:

• Ask how many rabbits are seen at the clinic each week
• Ask if they know which antibiotics are dangerous for rabbits (amoxicillin, lincomycin, and clindamycin. 
• Ask how to prevent hairballs. The answer should be: Provide your rabbit with hay every day, preferably 24 hours a day. Provide daily exercise and brush frequently. 
• Ask how many rabbits are spayed or neutered each week
• Ask if food has to be removed the night before surgery. The answer should be "no". Rabbits should never be fasted. 
• What is the success rate for spays/neuters? If any were lost, what was the cause? 90% success rate is way too low. 
• What anesthetics are used? Isoflurane is preferred. Some veterinarians are quite successful with other anesthetics, but the rabbit is "hung over" after surgery, which increases the likelihood that s/he will be slow to start eating again, which can lead to serious problems. 
• You might also want to ask which conferences they have attended lately that had talks about rabbit medicine and what journals they read.

Be careful not to choose the nearest vet without inquiring about their experiences with rabbits. Paying money for an inexperienced vet can be very costly to both you and your rabbit.

Q. Why should I spay or neuter my rabbits?

A. Male rabbits are neutered while the females are spayed. Neutering of males can be done as soon as the testicles descend and females after four months but before a year of age.

Spayed/neutered rabbits will make much more adoptable bunnies, be better human companions, will live longer, and be healthier.

Spaying/neutering significantly reduces the smell from a rabbit’s urine and fecal pellets.

In addition, spaying/neutering will help in saving cost that can be incurred treating injuries or in constructing a hutch for every bunny to curtail fighting and territorial marking because of hormonal surge.

Spayed/neutered rabbits display fewer obnoxious behaviors that humans find annoying or distasteful.

Finally, Spaying/neutering helps to prevent unwanted kits

Before introducing a spayed/neutered bunny into a group, you need to wait at least 2 weeks. This allows the bunny to heal and for his/her hormones to balance. Males can stay fertile for up to 6 weeks after neutering and may still exhibit hormonal behaviors such as spraying urine and mounting other rabbits.

Q. Can I let my rabbit run loose outside?

A. Because domestic rabbits have limited defenses for the many dangers found outdoors, it is best for your rabbit to be kept indoors. However, a limited amount of time outside is usually safe if you:

Always supervise your rabbit closely when he/she is outside

Make sure the grass has not been sprayed with pesticides or fertilizers

Check the yard for holes in the fence and poisonous plants

Only allow your rabbit outside during the daylight hours 

Q. What can I do to make my rabbit's exercise time more enjoyable?

A. First, remember that your rabbit depends on you for companionship. It is important to spend time with him, ideally on the floor where he can hop up to you when he chooses.

Even when a rabbit has a lot of room to run around, he may still get bored. A bored rabbit is often a naughty rabbit. If you do not make every attempt to provide your rabbit with lots of entertainment, then he will make his own entertainment in your carpet, behind your couch, or under your lounger.

Toys not only aid in keeping your rabbit out of trouble, they also provide mental stimulation and exercise. Some good toys to start with are:

Hiding toys: cardboard boxes, tunnels, paper bags

Chew toys: untreated hardwoods, untreated wicker baskets, grass mats, cardboard paper tubes

Toss toys: baby keys, many parrot toys

Noisemakers: cat toys with bells inside, baby rattles

Q. What can I do to make my rabbit's cage time more enjoyable?

A. A cage should be seen as your rabbit's nest -- a special place where he can feel safe and secure. Make the nest enjoyable and he will enjoy being there, even when the cage door is open! Keep it stocked with toys, a synthetic sheepskin rug, a piece of wood attached to the inside (like a baseboard), and when you put him to bed at night, a nice veggie or fruit snack.

Q. What do I need to do to bunny-proof an area?

A. Because rabbits are very curious and often chew on things, their exercise area needs to be "bunny-proofed" by moving or concealing anything you do not want chewed, especially electrical cords. Common steps taken include moving houseplants out of reach, covering electrical cords with tubing, applying anti-chewing substances to woodwork and furniture, and blocking access to spaces under and around furniture, etc. After you think you are done, let your rabbit help you identify areas you have missed. Supervise closely until truly bunny-proofed.

Finally, never attempt to use training alone to keep a rabbit from something that can cause harm or death. Toxic houseplants and electrical wires should be impossible for a rabbit to reach. Counting on training or "the way she's always behaved" is asking for trouble.

Q. Can my new rabbit run around my house 24 hours a day?

A. An untrained rabbit probably should be kept in a cage while you are not at home to supervise and at night when you sleep. Rabbits are crepuscular, which means they generally sleep during the day and during the night but are ready to play at dawn and at twilight. Be sure to let him out during the evening when you are at home, and if possible, in the morning while you get ready for work.

When your rabbit is better trained, and when your house has been sufficiently bunny-proofed, your rabbit can be allowed free run even when you are not home. The more room your rabbit has to run around in, the more delightful you will find her as a companion.

Q. What size cage is best?

A. Bigger is better! A cage should be at least 4 times the size of your rabbit - more if he is confined for a large amount of the day. Be sure the cage is large enough to allow space for a litterbox, food and water bowls, etc., and still allow your rabbit enough room to stretch out completely. It should also be tall enough that your rabbit can stretch up without their ears hitting the top. If the cage has a wire floor, be sure to provide something solid, like a towel, newspaper, or board, for your rabbit to lie on.

Q. How do I litterbox train my new rabbit?

A. The basic approach is simple. Begin by restricting your rabbit to a small space, like his cage, for the first week or so. Be sure to have at least one litterbox in a back corner of this space. During the week, your rabbit will choose a corner for his "bathroom" area. If this is not where you originally placed the litterbox, simply relocate the box to your rabbit's selected area. In a few days, your rabbit will associate the litterbox with his bathroom. At this point, gradually provide more run space. Be sure to supervise him carefully during this time, so any accidents can be corrected immediately by putting your rabbit back in his litterbox. Start will small amounts of space and time and gradually increase both as your rabbit proves his good habits. Reinforce consistently any accidents. If your rabbit will have access to more than one room of the house, it is a good idea to add more litterboxes as his space continues to grow. Eventually, your rabbit will demonstrate how many litterboxes are needed for the size of space he has.

Q. How much does having a rabbit cost?

A. I cannot give you the actual cost because your set up may be completely different, and where you live may be cheaper, or more expensive.  What I can do is offer a list of things you can calculate yourself.

ONE TIME

Bunny Proofing:

Wire Covers/Cord Protectors

Pen/Gate, etc.  If needed (for blocking off areas (see bunny proofing section)

Housing:

Habitat (e.g. x-pen, flooring, Neat Idea Cubes, Cage)

Accessories:

Pet Carrier

Water Bottle/Crock

Food Crock

Hay Rack

Soft Bedding

Litter box

Hiding Box

Grooming:

Nail Clippers

Brush/Comb

Styptic Powder

ONGOING COSTS

Supplies:

Hay

Pellets

Greens

Litter

Treats

Toys

Medical Care:

Critical Care

Feeding Syringe

Vet Care: This can get expensive. Rabbits are not cheap patients!  Always have at least N10,000 saved for medical care. The best way to find out vet costs is to call your local vet and ask what they usually treat rabbits for and how much is the average cost. (One common problem is GI Stasis)

Q. My bunny was so friendly as a baby, but it's only been a few months, and now she's pyscho! She lunges, growls, and sometimes even bites. What is wrong?

A. When bunnies reach sexual maturity (around 4 months) their hormones kick in. These hormones not only drive them to mate, but also to become territorial. Which can make them "defend" their territory from you, as well as take out any sexual frustration on you as well.  Spaying and neutering takes care of this.  Not only that, but it helps with litter box habits, and makes their urine and pills less pungent.

Plus, unspayed females have a high risk of cancer in their reproductive organs. Spaying prevents this from happening.

Q.  Well, my bunny is over the 4 months hump, plus he has been neutered for a while, and one day he just turned aggressive towards me. What did I do?

A. Have you been around other animals? Other rabbits?  Did you change your perfume or lotion?  Are you on any new medications?   Rabbits recognize us mostly by our smell.  If you no longer smell like you, he might not recognize you and feel threatened.

If nothing has changed scent wise, then take your bunny to the vet. Aggression can be a result of a rabbit in pain or suffering from illness.

Q. How can I tell if my bunny is fit?

A. You must be able to answer YES to all six of the following questions to be sure your bunny is fit:

Is the bunny active and alert?

Are its eyes bright and clear?

Is its nose clean, not runny?

Are its ears clean and dry inside?

Is its fur smooth and clean?

Are its feet dry and free of sores?

We appreciate more questions