Episode VI - ULTIMATE GUIDE TO RABBIT FARMING IN NIGERIA MANUAL
ULTIMATE: Guide to Rabbit Farming in Nigeria
Ultimate guide to rabbit farming in Nigeria manual presents
an overview of the entire process of raising rabbits in Nigeria - from selecting
healthy animals to preparing proper foods to treating disease. A separate
section of the manual includes step-by-step procedures for the construction of
a hutch unit to house two does and one buck.
Continued: Buck Record
After we started keeping the same records on the bucks'
performance sheets, we found that it made a helpful difference in judging the doe's
performance. We could now be sure if some things were the doe's fault or not. A
high mortality-rate among fryers or an irregular growth rate would be reason to
check the records of the bucks she has been mated with. If those bucks show up
well, then she can be culled without wasting time, feed and hutch space on "another
chance;" if the bucks do not show up well, then the doe's service is
continued and we check the bucks. Having both doe and buck records makes it a
lot easier to find the poor performers faster and without losing any more
money. After the records have been in use for a year or so, these problems are
likely to disappear.
Keeping the buck records and using them has really made our herd more profitable. We were able to work on facts instead of impressions.
Keeping the buck records and using them has really made our herd more profitable. We were able to work on facts instead of impressions.
Once I had to put our favorite buck on the "stew
list." In spite of the buck's being beautifully built, a terrific worker
with even the reluctant does, throwing good, uniform, easily identifiable litters,
his offspring just didn't grow out well. His MOT equaled only 46 percent! Other
things that showed up were: low number of young kindled, high kindling mortality,
high fryer mortality, uneven litters. All good culling reasons, not easily
found out without records.
About three times a year we evaluate every buck's performance record and give him a herd rating. This is in addition to normal checking and any special watching needed in between. Young bucks are first rated after their tenth breeding litter goes to market. Foster litters, or any litter where more than two have been added, are not included. By taking the total numbers of young at one week, at weaning and MOT we can calculate the percentage rates for mortality and marketability-on-time.
The herd bucks then are listed according to percentage raised and MOT of the litters. Those at the bottom are culled. The first time we used this rating, 7 out of 28 bucks were culled for less than a 65 percent MOT rating. Exactly one year later, 6 out of 28 with less than an 80 percent MOT rating were culled. Four months later, we culled two bucks; all the rest had 85-95 percent MOT. And along with the increase in MOT came a very nice increase in profits! If something undesirable showed up in a buck between herd ratings, we did not wait to cull him.
I cannot stress enough how much difference it can make financially to keep and use performance records on both does and bucks. They give the information necessary to make good management decisions on breeding, selection and culling.
About three times a year we evaluate every buck's performance record and give him a herd rating. This is in addition to normal checking and any special watching needed in between. Young bucks are first rated after their tenth breeding litter goes to market. Foster litters, or any litter where more than two have been added, are not included. By taking the total numbers of young at one week, at weaning and MOT we can calculate the percentage rates for mortality and marketability-on-time.
The herd bucks then are listed according to percentage raised and MOT of the litters. Those at the bottom are culled. The first time we used this rating, 7 out of 28 bucks were culled for less than a 65 percent MOT rating. Exactly one year later, 6 out of 28 with less than an 80 percent MOT rating were culled. Four months later, we culled two bucks; all the rest had 85-95 percent MOT. And along with the increase in MOT came a very nice increase in profits! If something undesirable showed up in a buck between herd ratings, we did not wait to cull him.
I cannot stress enough how much difference it can make financially to keep and use performance records on both does and bucks. They give the information necessary to make good management decisions on breeding, selection and culling.
Rabbit Diseases and Their Control
It is best to prevent disease; treating disease is often difficult. Following
these simple rules can do much toward keeping rabbits free from disease:
- Keep hutch, nest boxes, water cans and mangers CLEAN. Clean wire floors with soap and water after each litter.
- Give rabbits fresh green food to eat. Remove stale food from mangers.
- Protect rabbits from intense sun, rain and drafts.
- Keep unfriendly dogs away.
- Use wire netting for hutch floors. Hutch floors should be "cornerless."
- Take sick rabbits away from the other rabbits immediately.
- Watch for signs of the following diseases.
Coccidiosis (intestinal)
Signs: Diarrhea, a swollen belly. Rabbit
sits in a hunched position and will not eat. Often the rabbit staggers around
and is not able to keep its balance. This disease attacks rabbits between the
ages of 2 and 10 weeks. Coccidiosis can cause death.
Cause: A one-celled animal parasite living in the lining of the rabbit's intestines.
Treatment: Mecryl Powder, Sulphamezathine, Amprol, Sulfaquinoxaline or Eimryl Urgence are used to prevent and treat this disease. Follow the directions for each medication carefully.
This disease is spread through the droppings of infected rabbits. Keep the hutch clean at all times: one dirty corner in the hutch could lead to this disease.
Cause: A one-celled animal parasite living in the lining of the rabbit's intestines.
Treatment: Mecryl Powder, Sulphamezathine, Amprol, Sulfaquinoxaline or Eimryl Urgence are used to prevent and treat this disease. Follow the directions for each medication carefully.
This disease is spread through the droppings of infected rabbits. Keep the hutch clean at all times: one dirty corner in the hutch could lead to this disease.
Ear Mange
Signs: Dirty ears. Crusts on inner
surface of ear. Often the rabbit shakes its head or scratches its ears.
Cause: Mites. These insects are so small you can only see them with a magnifying glass. They dig under the skin on the inside of the rabbit's ears and cause pain.
Treatment: Remove the crusts with your fingernail. Go to a pharmacy and ask for a solution of 0.25 percent Lindane in vegetable oil, or a mixture of 2 parts iodoform, 10 parts ether and 25 parts vegetable oil. Swab either one of these solutions inside the ear with a piece of cloth or cotton. Apply again after one week. Check all other rabbits' ears for this problem.
Remarks: This disease can destroy the centers of balance in the rabbit's inner ear. If a rabbit is not treated for this disease it will result in a condition known as wry neck: the rabbit will hold its head to one side or fall over. Once this happens to a rabbit, it cannot be treated. The best thing to do is prevent it by treating the ear mange promptly.
Cause: Mites. These insects are so small you can only see them with a magnifying glass. They dig under the skin on the inside of the rabbit's ears and cause pain.
Treatment: Remove the crusts with your fingernail. Go to a pharmacy and ask for a solution of 0.25 percent Lindane in vegetable oil, or a mixture of 2 parts iodoform, 10 parts ether and 25 parts vegetable oil. Swab either one of these solutions inside the ear with a piece of cloth or cotton. Apply again after one week. Check all other rabbits' ears for this problem.
Remarks: This disease can destroy the centers of balance in the rabbit's inner ear. If a rabbit is not treated for this disease it will result in a condition known as wry neck: the rabbit will hold its head to one side or fall over. Once this happens to a rabbit, it cannot be treated. The best thing to do is prevent it by treating the ear mange promptly.
Colds
Signs: Sneezing and rubbing the nose
with the front feet. Fluid will show around the nose. This fluid may be thin
and clear, or it may be thick and yellow.
Cause: Several types of bacteria and virus.
Treatment: Reduce the amount of concentrates you are giving your rabbit for a few days. Give the rabbit all the green grass and leaves it wants.
Remarks: This disease attacks animals in over-crowded, damp, dirty hutches. Protect rabbits from rain. Always provide lots of fresh greens to eat.
Cause: Several types of bacteria and virus.
Treatment: Reduce the amount of concentrates you are giving your rabbit for a few days. Give the rabbit all the green grass and leaves it wants.
Remarks: This disease attacks animals in over-crowded, damp, dirty hutches. Protect rabbits from rain. Always provide lots of fresh greens to eat.
Sore Hocks
Signs: Rocking forward on front feet;
hind feet show sores on the bottom. Rabbit may lose the fur pad on the sole of
the foot, with scales and irritation in this area. If allowed to get worse, the
foot bleeds or becomes spongy with pus draining from it.
Cause: Wet or rough floors which rabbits bang their feet upon. Floors that are sharp, that sag too much, or that are filthy, may contribute to this.
Treatment: Soak the affected parts in warm, soapy water until the crusts come off. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Rub in ointment but do not use so much that the foot becomes sticky and picks up dirt (use zinc ointment, petroleum jelly, sulfathiazole ointment).
Remarks: Keep rabbits undisturbed so they do not bang their feet. Select replacement stock from quiet animals.
Cause: Wet or rough floors which rabbits bang their feet upon. Floors that are sharp, that sag too much, or that are filthy, may contribute to this.
Treatment: Soak the affected parts in warm, soapy water until the crusts come off. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Rub in ointment but do not use so much that the foot becomes sticky and picks up dirt (use zinc ointment, petroleum jelly, sulfathiazole ointment).
Remarks: Keep rabbits undisturbed so they do not bang their feet. Select replacement stock from quiet animals.
Sore Eyes
Signs: Rubbing eyes with feet. Fluid
from eye either thin and clear, or thick and yellow.
Cause: Irritation from flies or injury from jagged wire, etc.
Treatment: Clean eyes with boric acid water, or just clean water. Apply ophthalmic ointment (antibiotic, silver oxide, yellow oxide of mercury, Argyrol).
Remarks: This can often be contagious. Isolate sick animals.
Cause: Irritation from flies or injury from jagged wire, etc.
Treatment: Clean eyes with boric acid water, or just clean water. Apply ophthalmic ointment (antibiotic, silver oxide, yellow oxide of mercury, Argyrol).
Remarks: This can often be contagious. Isolate sick animals.
Skin Mange
Signs: The rabbit shows an intense
itching, the skin becomes reddened and irritated, the hair comes out, and
yellow crusts may be present.
Cause: Mites (similar to ear mange).
Treatment: Wash the affected area with warm soapy water, rinse and dry (important: rabbits can get pneumonia if not dried quickly). Clip the hair away from the edges of the sore area. Rub dry flowers of sulphur into the skin thoroughly. Repeat treatment in four to six days.
Remarks: Contagious. Isolate infected animals. Clean and disinfect hutches which have been used by diseased animals.
Cause: Mites (similar to ear mange).
Treatment: Wash the affected area with warm soapy water, rinse and dry (important: rabbits can get pneumonia if not dried quickly). Clip the hair away from the edges of the sore area. Rub dry flowers of sulphur into the skin thoroughly. Repeat treatment in four to six days.
Remarks: Contagious. Isolate infected animals. Clean and disinfect hutches which have been used by diseased animals.
Mucoid Enteritis (Scours or Bloat)
Signs: Drinking but no eating. Rabbits
sit hunched up with squinting eyes, grind their teeth, have dull, rough coats,
and swollen bellies. They may have diarrhea.
Cause: The cause is not known, but it is not thought to be contagious.
Treatment: No specific treatment known. Take away all food and water for 48 hours; then give small quantities of green food for a few days. Let them have small amounts of water during this time.
Remarks: Usually affects rabbits at about six weeks of age. Do not confuse this with coccidiosis, which can be treated.
Cause: The cause is not known, but it is not thought to be contagious.
Treatment: No specific treatment known. Take away all food and water for 48 hours; then give small quantities of green food for a few days. Let them have small amounts of water during this time.
Remarks: Usually affects rabbits at about six weeks of age. Do not confuse this with coccidiosis, which can be treated.
Pneumonia
Signs: Heavy breathing. Rabbit often
tilts its head back so that the nose is in the air. Rabbit moves very little
and will not eat. Body temperature, as shown by a thermometer placed in the
rectum, is high (39.5 - 41 [degrees] C or 103 - 106 [degrees] F). As the
animal gets worse the eyes and ears may show a bluish color because of lack of
oxygen.
Cause: Bacteria. Usually comes with other diseases, or if animal is pregnant, nursing young, or chilled and wet. Also attacks very young rabbits.
Treatment: Injections of antibiotics given before the disease progresses too far. The Veterinarian will usually give 200,000 units plus 0.25gm dihydroatreptomycin intra-muscularly (into a muscle) in the hind leg. Keep animal warm and dry, reduce concentrates and give plenty of green feed and and clean water.
Remarks: The critical time for the doe is two weeks before and two weeks after kindling. Watch the doe closely during these times. Pneumonia also can follow right after many of the other diseases. Watch for it. Treat and isolate infected animals promptly.
Cause: Bacteria. Usually comes with other diseases, or if animal is pregnant, nursing young, or chilled and wet. Also attacks very young rabbits.
Treatment: Injections of antibiotics given before the disease progresses too far. The Veterinarian will usually give 200,000 units plus 0.25gm dihydroatreptomycin intra-muscularly (into a muscle) in the hind leg. Keep animal warm and dry, reduce concentrates and give plenty of green feed and and clean water.
Remarks: The critical time for the doe is two weeks before and two weeks after kindling. Watch the doe closely during these times. Pneumonia also can follow right after many of the other diseases. Watch for it. Treat and isolate infected animals promptly.
Caked Breast (Caked Udder)
Signs: In early cases, the breasts (one
or more) are firm, pink and feel hot to the touch. Later on, little knots can
be felt in the breasts. Following this, the breasts may darken and become dry
and cracked.
Cause: Milk not being taken from the breasts fast enough. Doe may have too few young, or not be letting them nurse.
Treatment: Reduce concentrates and provide plenty of green feed and clean water. Rub Lanolin (or oil or some kind of skin-softening agent) well into the breasts and try to get milk to flow by massaging and encouraging young to nurse. If breasts crack, soften crusts and allow to drain, but do not lance with a knife.
Remarks: Do not wean all the young rabbits from heavily milking does at the same time; take a few at a time from her. Breed heavy milkers a few days before weaning the young. If a heavy milker loses a litter, breed her again at once. Breeding helps to reduce the milk in the breasts. Avoid disturbances, particularly at night.
If breasts start getting blue, the doe should have antibiotic injections (Penicillin) at once. Isolate the doe and wash your hands thoroughly before taking care of other does.
Cause: Milk not being taken from the breasts fast enough. Doe may have too few young, or not be letting them nurse.
Treatment: Reduce concentrates and provide plenty of green feed and clean water. Rub Lanolin (or oil or some kind of skin-softening agent) well into the breasts and try to get milk to flow by massaging and encouraging young to nurse. If breasts crack, soften crusts and allow to drain, but do not lance with a knife.
Remarks: Do not wean all the young rabbits from heavily milking does at the same time; take a few at a time from her. Breed heavy milkers a few days before weaning the young. If a heavy milker loses a litter, breed her again at once. Breeding helps to reduce the milk in the breasts. Avoid disturbances, particularly at night.
If breasts start getting blue, the doe should have antibiotic injections (Penicillin) at once. Isolate the doe and wash your hands thoroughly before taking care of other does.
Killing, Skinning, and Tanning Rabbits
Animals are killed when they reach the desired market weight. In many cases, getting the meat is more important than worrying about the skin. When possible, rabbits are kept longer, gaining weight at a slower rate, so that they can be kept until the combined value of the meat (carcass) and pelt (skin) will bring the highest return.In the United States, 80 percent of the rabbits marketed are classed as "fryers." This means they are tender and suitable for quicker cooking methods. To become classified as fryers, medium and heavy breeds of rabbits are weaned and marketed at two months of age, when their weight averages 1.7 - 2 kg (3 3/4 - 4 1/2 lb). The meat that you actually are able to "dress" out of the animal -- or fryer yield of the carcass -- will average from 50 to 60 percent of the live weight.
At the time of slaughter there should be some fat over the ribs, along the backbone, in the flanks, and around the tailhead and the kidneys, increasing the dressing percent over that of the thin rabbit. To do this, rabbits must be properly fed. Small bones and thin skin show quality in an animal. Because of this, medium breeds with small bones and thin skin will give higher dressing percent than ones with large bones and thick skins.
The amount of food in the stomach and intestines has an effect on dressing percent. If the rabbit is without food and water for a few hours before killing, the dressing percent will be lower.
The profit you get from a fryer will depend on how much feed and labor cost you have to subtract from the fryer's market price.
In the next episode of this manual are step-by-step instructions on killing and skinning, and tanning the hides of rabbits.
